2016 Domaine de Montille Volnay 1er Cru ‘Les Champs’, Burgundy – buy online

WHO?

Founded in the mid-18th century, Domaine de Montille is one of the oldest family-run estates on the Côte d’Or. It is currently managed by the ninth generation of the family, Etienne de Montille, who inherited the estate from his late father, Hubert. Hubert Montille managed the estate for an impressive 50 years. During a time when 90% of the region’s production was sold to négociants, he gained fame for bottling estate-grown wines that were long-lived and distinctive. Etienne was an early advocate of organic farming, which he introduced to the estate’s vineyards in 1995. Biodynamic practices followed in 2005, and the estate received ‘Ecocert Bio’ certification in 2012. Wine production at Domaine de Montille has evolved over the years. Etienne, who studied enology and worked as Hubert’s apprentice, sought a progressive approach to vinification compared to his father’s traditional methods. Gradually, Hubert allowed his son more control, and Etienne’s influence on wine production became noticeable from the late 1990s.

WHERE?

“En Champans” is one of the most esteemed vineyards in Volnay. The name of the vineyard comes from two words, “Champ” (field) and “pans” (an old dialect for “pente” – slope). This 0.96-hectare vineyard is situated on a steep eastern slope. The top of the parcel has light brown chalky soil, while the lower part of the parcel is more clay-dominated with darker brown and reddish soil. Domaine de Montille has practiced organic viticulture since 1995 and has been certified organic since 2012. Since 2005, they have also transitioned to biodynamic viticulture.

WHY?

There is no fixed recipe for wine production here; instead, the estate responds to the nuanced characteristics of each vintage. For red wines, this usually means whole-cluster fermentation, ranging from 50% to 100%, although destemming is used when deemed desirable. Maceration lasts 12 to 16 days, with daily punch-downs and moderate use of new French oak barrels, usually 30% or less. In the best vintages, up to 50% new oak is used for top cuvées. For white wines, the grapes are typically harvested early to preserve freshness. Aging takes place in a combination of 228 and 600-liter oak barrels (with little to no bâtonnage) to add texture and complexity. As with red wines, new oak is used sparingly, usually comprising no more than 20-25% of the mix. Wines age on their lees in barrels for 11-12 months, then rest in tanks for five to six months before bottling.